Moving from the sleepy suburbs of Portland, Oregon, to the middle of a bustling European city has been an adventure—though our dog, Oreo, has had the hardest time adjusting (we’ll save his dramatic monologues for another post). Don’t get me wrong—we love the energy, the charm, and the endless options for food, culture, people-watching, and, most importantly, local wine fresh from the Duoro valley. Our son, Nicklas, is living his dream in a little loft right in the thick of Porto’s action, and Chuck and I are no strangers to city life, having once lived on the Upper West Side of Manhattan.
But sometimes, you just need a beach day. Can I get an Amen?
One of the best things about living in Portugal is the sheer number of beaches at your fingertips. Porto sits right on the Atlantic, meaning beach access is never far. But for a true, no-fuss, slightly sandy, fully relaxing beach experience—one where you can stretch out, breathe deeply, and maybe even spot a Speedo—our new favorite escape is Espinho.
The Perfect Getaway: Train to Praia da Granja
One of the simplest (and cheapest) day trips from Porto is a breezy, 30-minute train ride to Espinho, a coastal town where the waves are big, the boardwalk is endless, and the vinho verde flows freely. It’s simple and very inexpensive to there there! Just a quick urban train ride, only 30 minutes away. But to make it a little more interesting, get off the train a couple of stops earlier, in Praia da Granja (or just Granja).
Catching the Train: Coffee First, Beach Later
Start your journey at Campanhã Station or, if you’re like us, hop on at Bolhão (here’s a map of the Porto Metro system). Trains to Espinho are part of the urban train (Comboios Urbanos) network, heading toward Aveiro (also an amazing day trip—check out blog post!). Look for Granja on the stops list, if you’re getting off and walking about an hour to Espinho (my recommendation!), or look for Espinho to skip the long stroll (gotta get those steps in, though, and what a way to do it!). Grab a window seat for those ocean views, and in about half an hour, voilà—you’re at the beach. The best part? You can use your Andante card (yep, the same one you use for the metro), and with no extra charge, depending on your card’s zone (be sure to check!). It’s that easy.
And because every good Portuguese adventure starts with caffeine, our first order of business? Coffee and pastéis de nata. There’s something especially nice about having them in Granja—a sleepy little beach town where time moves slower and locals greet each other like old friends. My family always pops into the local, friendly, and tasty Delícia da Granja, which is only steps from the train station. We sip our coffee, and fuel up for our walk with some caffeine and sweets.
Walking the Passadiço: Granja to Espinho
From the cafe, walk straight to the beach until you see Meia Laranja, which is a grand set of stairs that run from the boardwalk down to the surf and waves crashing below. We saw a man with roller-blades on these stairs on day! What a nut! I can’t imagine having to swim in roller blades if you had an oopsie! That aside… this is the perfect place to snap some photos and start your walk toward Espinha (to your left, down the beach if you’re looking at the ocean). Just make your way to the boardwalk (passadiço)—a long wooden path that hugs the coastline, winding past wild flowers, dunes, and rocky beaches, and with frequent access to the sandy beach below. The boardwalk stretches for miles, making it perfect for a long, soul-cleansing stroll. We’ve done this walk multiple times, and it never gets old. Bring your dog (Oreo gives it two paws up!), let them go wild in the surf (leashes are technically not required in winter), and breathe in the salty air.
Or, if you’re feeling extra lazy (totally acceptable), just plop down on the beach and soak up the sun. If you’re lucky, you might even witness a fearless Portuguese local taking a dip in the icy Atlantic. In a Speedo. In January. Respect.
The walk from Granja to Espinho is about 4 kilometers (2.5 miles)—just long enough to feel like you’ve “earned” a reward but not so long that it feels like exercise. The ocean is always in view, and depending on the day, we might get a dramatic wave show or a perfectly calm, glistening Atlantic.
Vinho Verde by the Waves—Because, Portugal
By the time we reach Espinho, we’re ready to sit, sip, and soak up the ocean vibes.
Espinho is livelier than Granja, with beach bars, surf schools, and plenty of cafés and restaurants. There’s even a Casino there, if that’s your jive (not necessarily ours, and who wants to be in a dark building with all of that sun, sand and surf around you!). We always find a spot along the waterfront, order a chilled glass of vinho verde, and let the day slow down. The crisp, slightly fizzy white wine is basically Portugal in a glass—refreshing, unpretentious, and made for seaside moments.
And the best part? No rush. No schedule. Just waves, wine, and the feeling that we’ve done this day exactly right.
Heading Back: No Rush, No Worries
When we’re ready, we stroll back to the train station in Espinho and hop on a train back to Porto. Trains run frequently, so there’s no stress if we miss one—just another excuse to order mais um vinho verde (one more green wine!) and linger a little longer by the beach.
Final Thoughts: Why This Trip is Pura Magia (Pure Magic)
A quick train ride, stunning beach views, endless boardwalks, amazing pastries, and vinho verde? Yes, please.Whether you’re craving fresh air, great coffee, a long scenic walk, or just an excuse to day-drink by the ocean, Espinho delivers maximum enjoyment with minimal effort.
We’ve even made it a tradition to sneak away while Nicklas is at school (sorry, kid!), squeezing in a beachside wine break before heading back to the city. What a life.
Ame cada dia. (Enjoy each day.)